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Thursday, 11 May 2017

Ferry Plaza & Bay Front Trail

It would appear that the weather forecasts here are every bit as accurate as the ones back home. Today's prediction was for much cooler temperatures, but whoever made that forecast clearly hadn't looked out of the window. Knowing we were planning to spend most of the day down on the Bay waterfront, I packed a light jacket just in case. As it turned out, it spent most of the day stuffed in my bag doing absolutely nothing. 

We didn't head out until around 11 o'clock. From the hotel, we walked down to Market Street and caught the bus to the Ferry Plaza, ready for another day of exploring the waterfront and seeing where the day would take us.

A Temple To Transit

One of our favourite places in the city is the San Francisco Railway Museum, still affectionately known by many locals and transit enthusiasts as the Market Street Railway Museum. It's only a small museum, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in character, explaining just about everything you could ever want to know about San Francisco's historic streetcars and the golden age of public transport. Couple that with the vintage trams rumbling past outside every few minutes and it feels less like a museum and more like a living exhibit. 

Inside The Museum
Inside are old fare boxes, vintage signs, historic photographs, route maps, uniforms, and all sorts of wonderfully specific transport oddities that make you realise San Francisco once treated streetcars almost like a civic religion. One of the highlights is a full-size replica of the driving platform from a 1911 streetcar, where you can stand at the controls and pretend you're piloting several tons of noisy electric machinery down Market Street while pedestrians casually ignore your existence. 

The museum does a fantastic job of showing how San Francisco grew around its transit system. Before cars took over, the city was stitched together by streetcars and cable cars carrying people to work, parks, baseball games and neighbourhoods perched on seemingly impossible hills. There's a lovely sense that transit wasn't just a way of getting around — it was part of the city's identity and daily life. 

It's also refreshingly unpretentious. There are no giant queues, no flashy interactive displays, and no over-produced tourist spectacle. Just passionate volunteers and preservationists keeping an important piece of San Francisco's histor alive for anyone curious enough to step through the door.

Coffee With Movie History

The Ferry Building
Once outside, we crossed the road and passed the concrete tube fountain before arriving at the Ferry Building. 

Completed in 1898, it is one of San Francisco's most iconic buildings. Its imposing clock tower rises 245 feet above the waterfront and has survived both the devastating earthquakes of 1906 and 1989. Unfortunately, with the construction of bridges across the bay from the 1930s onwards, ferry traffic steadily declined. As services became less frequent, the building lost much of its original purpose and was gradually divided into office space, with little regard for its grand architecture. 

The building suffered another blow in the late 1950s when the Embarcadero Freeway was constructed directly in front of it. The elevated road almost completely obscured the Ferry Building from public view and severed much of its connection with the waterfront. Following the 1989 earthquake, sections of the freeway were badly damaged, with parts collapsing altogether. Rather than rebuild it, the decision was made to demolish the structure and redevelop the area. The result was the creation of the plaza that now stands in front of the building, along with the extension of the F-Line streetcars along the waterfront to Fisherman's Wharf. It was during this redevelopment that the Ferry Building was restored to its former glory. 

Today happened to be farmers market day, with stalls spread across the plaza outside. Inside, the building is packed with food shops and artisan producers. One of our favourites is the Golden Gate Meat Company, which sells the best turkey pies I've ever tasted. At seven dollars each they're certainly not cheap, but they're worth every penny. 

Coffee With A View
Just around the corner is Peet's Coffee, so we grabbed a drink to go with our pies and found a seat by the window overlooking the bay. This is the same location used for several scenes in one of the Clint Eastwood Dirty Harry films, although I can never remember exactly which one. With views across the water towards Treasure Island and the immense structure of the Bay Bridge stretching away to the right, it's the perfect place to stop for lunch. The bridge is one of those landmarks that never quite looks real until you're standing beside it. No matter how many photographs you've seen, it's difficult to appreciate just how enormous it actually is.

Bimballing Along The Bay

From the Ferry Building we headed along The Bay Front Trail, pausing at the rather pleasant courtyard outside the local offices of Google and Firefox — not somewhere you'd normally put on a must-see list, but a decent spot to sit and feel vaguely important for a few minutes — before crossing the road and hopping on a tram for a couple of stops to AT&T Park, home of the San Francisco Giants, who were gearing up for their first home game in a couple of weeks. 

Even three hours before first pitch, there was a buzz in the air. Fans in orange and black drifted steadily towards the stadium, conversations filled with optimism, ritual and hope. There's something infectious about baseball crowds. Even when you don't have a ticket, you can't help but get swept up in the anticipation of it all. 

We'd actually planned on going to see a game, but both fixtures were 7 pm starts, which meant you wouldn't be getting out of the ballpark until gone 11 pm, then still having to get back to the hotel. Add to that the fact that ticket prices seemed to have shot up considerably this year, and that the Giants hadn't exactly been setting the world alight on the field, and the decision more or less made itself. 

There was a small pang of disappointment though. Watching a Giants game had become one of those traditions that felt tied to our visits here, and it was strange being on the outside looking in. Still, sometimes travel is about knowing when not to force things. The atmosphere was free, the sunshine was free, and neither required a ticket. 

We still had a wander round the team shop, which was a treat — until you looked at the price tags, at which point it became considerably less of one. I did manage to justify a pen at $2, because frankly I had to buy something in there. A man has his principles. 

San Francisco Belle
And honestly, it didn't matter that we hadn't ticked off a great long list of things today. For most of the trip we'd been chasing sights, covering miles, hopping on buses, trams and cable cars in an effort to make the most of every day. But somewhere along the way I'd forgotten that some of my favourite travel memories aren't the big attractions at all. 

Sometimes they're just moments. 

A warm afternoon. A walk with nowhere particular to be. The sound of the bay. Watching the city go about its business while you slow down long enough to appreciate being part of it for a little while. 

Cupids Span
We strolled the Embarcadero between Cupid's Span and Pier 7, breathing in the bay air, with the paddle steamer San Francisco Belle sitting gleaming white in the sun like she hadn't a care in the world. After everything we'd packed into the previous week and a half, the lack of a plan felt almost luxurious. No rush. No timetable. Just the two of us enjoying the simple pleasure of being there. 

As the afternoon drifted towards evening, there was also the quiet awareness that our time in San Francisco was beginning to run short. Tomorrow would be our last full day. The city that had felt so vast and unfamiliar when we arrived now felt strangely comfortable, almost familiar. Those final days of a trip always carry a slightly bittersweet edge — wanting to make the most of every remaining hour while already knowing you'll miss the place when it's gone.

Reflections On The Day

Today was a reminder that not every memorable day needs a packed itinerary. There was something wonderfully relaxing about simply wandering the waterfront, soaking up the atmosphere, and enjoying the city at a slower pace. As the trip began to edge towards its final days, I found myself appreciating the small moments more than the big attractions — a good view, a warm afternoon, a quiet walk, and the simple pleasure of having nowhere in particular to be. Sometimes that's enough, and today it felt exactly right. 
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